Things 1 - 20

LIVERPOOL - 100 THINGS 

My home city of Liverpool has many 'firsts' to its' name - a long and distinguished history of creativity, forward thinking and social reform. Like any city, there are darker bits too. This blog is a photo essay reflecting on and celebrating these various themes - my own considered list of 100 things that set my city apart from any other. 

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#1

 

THE PEOPLE OF LIVERPOOL

 

The People are what make this place special. Scousers. To outsiders, that badge has negative connotations. Not for me - I'm a Scouser and proud of it. If I could have that as my nationality in my passport, that's what I'd pick. Any city is only as good as the people who inhabit it. 

Certainly we're  not all angels and sweeping generalisations are fatuous. But there is a warmth about most of the people of Liverpool - and we have a sense of solidarity encoded in our DNA. Some of most notable sons and daughters have their own entries on this list. Others I admire like Margaret Simey, Ricky Tomlinson, Joan Jonker, the Mersey Poets, Paul O'Grady,  Sir John Moores, Margaret Aspinall and Claire Dove missed out by a hair's breadth. But mostly, it is the ordinary men and women in the street who will open up  a conversation with a complete stranger on the bus or engage me in a chat while I shoot my favourite sights with my camera. It really is a warm and friendly city. 

But don't just take my word for it:  

     

You've got a heart that sings. You bring the world to my shore. You shock me, you scare me. You take risks. You shoot yourself in the foot. You're misunderstood. You've got an inner glow. You've got spirit.

Phil Morris 2007

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"...if Liverpool can get into top gear again there is no limit to the city's potential. The scale and resilience of the buildings and people is amazing-it is a world class city"

Ian Nairn, 1967

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I have to say, however, that I was touched by the people who live here, the way some of them cheered me up being away from home, the easy way you can be part of this city and its people without having to prove anything or argue your case. It is an open hearted city.

Mariane Della Rocca 2003

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The Liverpudlians I meet are self-confident, optimistic, proud of their heritage and looking forward with enthusiasm to a more prosperous future.

Jane Wolstenholme 2007

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.. most of all I miss the Scousers – those loud, no nonsense, wonderful Scousers.

Stephen McKay 2007

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#2

 

HILLSBOROUGH

 

I have many reasons to be proud of my city - but this is one that I wish wasn't in this list. The Hillsborough disaster was a particularly dark chapter in our history. The subsequent 25 year fight (and counting) to tell the truth about this tragedy was a textbook study in the bravery, resilience and the sheer bloody-mindedness that makes us Scousers unbeatable. The Hillsborough Families took on the British Establishment - and won. 

The English language is a rich and powerful tool but it still doesn't arm me with the words to adequately express my admiration for these brave, dignified and determined people. These great qualities were all the more remarkable when found in ordinary men and women - thrust, by tragedy and conspiracy - to fight the most tenacious campaign for that which should have been their right - JUSTICE. 

The late Ann Williams was the embodiment of all those best qualities and it is an unpurge-able stain on the nation's conscience that this brave and formidable lady didn't live to see justice for her son, Kevin's, death. When Justice finally comes for Duckenfield, Murray and their co-conspirators - as it surely must - it won't be a cause for celebration. Just quiet and massive outrage that it took so long to be delivered and that these decent people were put through such an un-necessary and prolonged ordeal.  

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#3

 

THE MAY BLITZ - WW2

Mr Hitler was kidding himself if he thought that pouring thousands and thousands of tons of munitions and incendiaries into Liverpool would de-rail the war effort. Liverpool's docks were playing a pivotal role in the import of key supplies from America. Hitler knew he had to disrupt that supply line before he could invade Britain.  

But he reckoned without the resilience and resourcefulness of the Scousers who  kept the port open, the factories working and the docks functioning. In spite of a sustained campaign against the city in May 1940, causing widespread death, damage and disruption, the dockers continued to work and the port of Liverpool never turned away a single ship arriving with vital provisions for the war effort.

Outside of London, the northern suburb of Bootle suffered the most concentrated damage in the country. At the end of the war, thousands of tons of rubble were cleared and moved to the beach at Crosby to act as sea defences. The Bootle rubble remains to this day - a poignant and powerful reminder of the punishment taken. 

The burned out shell of St Lukes Church also remains - looking down Bold Street - another living tribute to the defiance and grit shown by the city and her people in the nation's darkest hour. 

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#4

 

THE BEATLES

 

It is hard to add anything new to the millions of words that have already been written about The Beatles. Widely acclaimed as the greatest band in the world, their 214 tracks recorded in just seven years, changed the world - and in a very good way. 

Possibly  the most unique things about the Beatles is that they repeatedly pushed the musical envelope in quantum leaps, innovating and experimenting without a care for commercial appeal. At the same time they retained their almost universal popularity. Nobody else has ever come close to combining these diametrically opposed musical outcomes without compromising their integrity. 

There are many places that could justly lay claim to being 'The Birthplace of The Beatles'. St Peters churchyard in Woolton - where Paul was introduced to John - and The Cavern - probably have the strongest claims.

George Martin once said of them ‘When I was with them, they gave me a sense of well-being, of being happy.’ Through their music, they rippled that warmth out across the whole world.  Ladies and Gentlemen - Liverpool's greatest cultural gift to the world: The Beatles.

 

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#5

 

THE SLAVE TRADE

 

Some Scousers feel that this chapter from our past is a shameful episode that should be hushed up. Why? Nobody responsible for it is alive today. Fatuous, politically correct apologies are pointless - they carry no weight coming at a remove of ten or twelve generations. Slavery happened and, viewed through the lens of today's more enlightened society, it was a brutal, cruel and inhumane trade - a shameful stain on our history that can never be purged. 
   

The International Museum of Slavery in Liverpool's Albert Dock at least tells the story with some balance although it fails woefully to recreate the true horror of slaving and the conditions that prevailed. How could it? But at least it is putting this matter out there for future generations to learn lessons from. And that is important because human trafficking has never quite completely gone away, has it?

 

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#6

 

THE ANGLICAN CATHEDRAL

 

Liverpool's Anglican cathedral was finally completed in 1979 after 77 years of construction. Britain's largest cathedral has the world's largest Gothic arches, organ and the highest and heaviest bells.  It also has the world’s longest nave and largest tower.

If St Georges Hall was a bold statement of civic chutzpah, the Anglican Cathedral is a global expression of faith and swagger. This Gothic masterpiece is all the more remarkable because its' architect - Sir Giles Gilbert Scott - had never been commissioned to design anything previously. But his initial submissions (much altered during construction, it must be said) appealed and he got the job. 

The completed building is one of Britain’s finest architectural treasures - a place to marvel, reflect and find one's awe well and truly inspired. When those arches soar, they take your spirits with them. It has to be seen to be fully understood and appreciated. It should be top of every visitor to our city's list of sights to see.

 

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#7

 

THE BATTLE OF THE ATLANTIC

 

In 1941, Britain stood alone as the might of the German Reich had swept all before them in a merciless march across Europe. The 'Few' of the RAF gave Hitler pause for thought after their brave defence in The Battle of Britain. But if the country was to turn the tide of fascism, The Battle of the Atlantic was the key to it's success. Churchill recognised that the supply and provision of the country in sea-going convoys from a reluctant America was THE pivotal factor and he moved the command headquarters for that critical part of the war effort, to Liverpool.

The War Rooms still survive with their archaic communication systems and air of secrecy. Under the command of men like Sir Max Horton and Captain 'Johnny' Walker, the tide was turned against the u-boat menace. But only after over 35,000 brave merchant seamen had lost their lives out on the cold and unforgiving sealanes of the North Atlantic.

Every May, a dwindling number of elderly sea dogs gather in Liverpool to commemorate the inestimable contribution of the Merchant Navy and all of those who played a part in maintaining this vital lifeline in WW2. And each year, respect for their gallantry seems to grow amongst those of us who will never be able to adequately express our gratitude for all that they achieved.

For a fuller understanding of their story, you could do a lot worse than pick up  a copy of Nicholas Monsarrat's 'The Cruel Sea'.  The history books may tell this story in terms of tonnage lost and U-boat atrition - but The Cruel Sea brings the characters and their brave struggle alive by putting flesh and humanity onto the cruel and bare  statistics of the history books.

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#8

 

LIVERPOOL 08 - CAPITAL OF CULTURE

 

Some high-brows were raised when Liverpool was named European Capital of Culture for 2008. But Liverpool went on to deliver a 'benchmark-raising' programme of cultural pleasures that others have since striven to emulate. 

Liverpool was blessed in having such a rich and diverse cultural heritage on which to draw. Of course, we locals already knew all about that - the opportunity to tell the rest of the world about it was the real legacy of our year as Capital of Culture. It helped to restore a sense of confidence in Scousers - a self-belief that had all but been battered out of us by the constant media assault on our image and reputation.  

2008 wasn't a watershed for the city - since then, great things are happening in Liverpool most of the time. In spite of the economic downturn, arts venues thrive and it's sometimes hard to keep up with all that is going on. Liverpool was placed number 3 in a recent 'Top cities in world to visit in 2014' listing. Good things continue to happen in Liverpool.

 

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#9

 

MUSIC

 

In 2001 Liverpool was named World Capital of Pop Music with 53 No. 1 chart hits since 1953.

"Liverpool is THE quintessential music city of Britain".  Pete Townshend – 2006

Mathew Street can justly claim to be the musical city’s epicentre. Bill Drummond became obsessed with ley lines whilst living in Liverpool and believed that there was a cosmic line of energy descended from space that bounced off Iceland, before being channelled down Mathew Street - and into this manhole, before it exited Earth via Papua New Guinea. He tested this theory by getting Echo And The Bunnymen to play  in Reykjavik whilst he stood on the manhole cover. Nothing happened. At least he tried.

Anyway, just look at the city's unsurpassed musical heritage - there has to be something in Drummond's theory, right? No other city can lay claim to such a rich and diverse musical legacy. For more evidence to support this bold claim you could do worse than check out Paul Du Noyer's 'Wondrous Place' - a fitting account of the city's global domination of the popular music genre.

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#10

 

LIVERPOOL FOOTBALL CLUB

 

Obviously an element of the local population won't care to be reminded of this - but Liverpool Football Club became a global brand by dominating English - and European football - for four decades. Under managers like Shankly, Paisley, Fagan, Dalglish, Houllier and Benitez, the club accumulated an un-rivalled collection of trophies and a following to match. They enhanced the reputation of the city and continue to attract international visitors who are eager to visit Anfield and experience the ground's unique atmosphere for themselves. 

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#11

 

THE PORT OF LIVERPOOL BUILDING

 

Liverpool is blessed with some of the best architectural treasures in Britain. St Georges Hall and the Anglican Cathedral are world class gems by anybody's standards. However, if you put a gun to my head and forced me to chose my favourite edifice, I would probably lean heavily towards the Port of Liverpool Building.

Designed by Sir Arnold Thornley and completed in 1907, this Edwardian Baroque confection with its' Italianate overtones is a joy for the eye, both inside and out. The construction of the building is so solid that even a direct hit from the Luftwaffe in WW2 didn't put the building out of action for long  A significant renovation was completed in 2008 and the building remains an aesthetic treat worthy of its' Grade II and UNESCO listed status.

 

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#12

 

 LIVERPOOL vs MANCHESTER

Manchester is like the pushy kid at school who, regardless of talent, has to have the lead role in the school play. Chutzpah, Hyperbole and Hubris are words that might have been coined to describe Manchester - a place with an over-inflated sense of it's own importance. For years they have carried themselves with that Cock of The Walk arrogant swagger that the rest of the world struggles to comprehend. What's to be cocky about?

The feud between us is as old as the well documented cotton trade/Manchester Ship Canal saga. When the first inter-city railway line in the world was being built, there were those in Liverpool who felt that linking the two cities would bring 'the wrong sort' to Liverpool. They may have been right. Liverpool has the 'rough' reputation but Manchester has the crime statistics. In almost every measurable crime index, Manchester tops the table while Liverpool struggles in a lower division. Their indigenous media presence, however, has always been happy to promote an alternative reality, regardless of the cold hard facts.

The rivalry is now of Sicilian intensity and is stoked, not just by football and music, but by much broader social, economic and cultural agendas. Perhaps the city that gave us the noble victims of Peterloo, LS Lowry and John Cooper Clarke should command a little more respect?  Maybe - but whatever card Manchester plays, Liverpool holds all the aces - always has - always will.

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#13

 

THE PIER HEAD

 

'There cannot be anywhere else like this in England' said Stuart Maconie about Liverpool's dramatic waterfront. Good judge. In 2004 Liverpool's Pier Head was named as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

No other English city can offer such a distinctive cityscape -a unique combination of world class architecture with the added advantage of a perspective (The Wirral has to be useful for something...) from which to view it. Our iconic skyline has become part of the city's branding.

The Pier Head itself is now an important civic space and even with a canal link to the docks running through it, it regularly hosts cultural events against a 'Grace - Full' backdrop of global architectural renown.

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#14

 

ST GEORGES HALL

 

In 2004 St. Georges Hall was voted, by the European Architectural Commission, the finest public building constructed in Europe in the past 200 years. That's some accolade when you look at the quality of the opposition.

Built on the site of the old Liverpool Infirmary, the building was completed in 1854. It was a multi-purpose civic amenity combining a huge concert hall, a smaller concert room and a Crown Court - all under one roof. It is a massive civic statement of prosperity and ambition from a city at the height of its' global pre-eminence. 

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#15

 

LIVERPOOL THEATRE

 

Liverpool has a long tradition of theatrical excellence. From the Royal Amphitheatre in the 19th Century through to venues like The New Shakespeare, The Neptune, The Unity, The Playhouse and The Everyman - the city has made a vital and historical contribution to the performing arts. The city has consistently punched above its' weight in this genre and there are far too many distinguished names to list without risking damaging the fragile egos of those that space dictates must be left out.

Suffice to say that the future remains bright as the new Everyman rises from the dust of the old one and - through its’ vigorous youth programme - new stars wait to tread in illustrious thespian footsteps.

The new Everyman opens shortly and the theatre is an uncanny 2014 re-creation of the old venue - as it is bound to be as 25,000 bricks from the original site have been recycled into the new build. In Liverpool, the future of theatre and the performing arts remains dazzlingly bright.

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#16

 

 THE RIVER MERSEY

 

Life goes on day after day - but Liverpool owes its' very existence to the River on whose banks it sits. It isn't one of the worlds great rivers by any means. It starts its 60 mile journey to the Irish Sea near Stalybridge in the Pennines. It's importance as a broad and sheltered estuary was recognised over 800 years ago when King John gave Liverpool it's Royal Charter. He also saw the town's strategic importance in putting down a Welsh uprising in 1211. 

The port really took off in 1715 when the Old Pool was filled in and replaced by the world's first commercial enclosed dock system. After that, the port flourished rapidly and the river filled up with vessels from Ireland, the Americas and the Far East. The docks and their supporting warehouse infrastructure spread outwards along the shoreline.

Between 1830 and 1930, over nine million emigrants left the Mersey - destination America. As cargo trade took to the air in the 1960s, the traffic on the river went into decline. But embracing the concept of containerisation, a container terminal at Seaforth breathed new life into the river and the thriving freeport is now recognised as one of the most efficently run of it's kind in the world.  

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#17

 

THE METROPOLITAN CATHEDRAL

 

Liverpool's Catholic community had been trying to build a cathedral since 1853. Grand designs were repeatedly drafted and quietly dropped, for a variety of reasons. Finally, in 1962, archtect Frederick Gibberd's plans were accpeted and construction work commenced. The Cathedral was consecrated five years later and was soon re-christened 'Paddy's Wigwam' by the less respectful locals. Built in the shape of a crown, initially, it was a subject of much derision. 

Since then, it has become an iconic building and a vibrant counterpoint to the architectural  glory of the Anglican Cathedral. Some cities have very modest cathedrals (Birmingham and Manchester spring to mind). In Liverpool we are handsomely endowed with two of the finest cathedrals in the country - albeit of radically differing architectural styles.

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#18

 

JOSEPH WILLIAMSON

In 1816, a local businessman and landowner, Joseph Williamson, noticed that a lot of local  men were returning from the Napoleonic Wars and were unemployed. Williamson had amassed a considerable fortune from his business ventures and so he set some of them to work in the grounds of his house in Mason Street on the edge of the city. The frontage of that house still remains intact. Eventually, he recruited more men and soon had them excavating the sandstone outcrop on which his house was built.

An underground labyrinth of strange halls and brick lined tunnels began to radiate outwards from his house. When his wife died, he became increasingly eccentric and devoted more and more of his time to his subterranean activities. When he died in 1840, tunnelling ceased. The labyrinth subsequently fell into disrepair and the corporation used it to dump rubbish into. Although sections of the excavations have since been reclaimed  (and can be visited – see the website for further details), nobody is really sure about the extent of what remains undiscovered. However, the excavations themselves have proved fascinating as much Victorian waste has thrown up a wide variety of artefacts.

Since then, many have questioned Williamson’s motives. Surely we should trust his own words when he said that his workers "all received a weekly wage and were thus enabled to enjoy the blessing of charity without the attendant curse of stifled self respect", his prime motive being "the employment of the poor". A philanthropist of the very best nature.

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#19

 

ELEANOR RATHBONE

 

Eleanor Rathbone was one of the country's first ever female MPs. She was an early pioneer in the suffragette movement and, once established as an MP, she took up the causes of child poverty and womens equality. She remained a powerful advocate for issues of social justice all her life.

In 1945, Attlee's post war government rewarded her unstinting work on behalf of the poor by introducing the Family Allowance Act in 1945 - shortly before Eleanor passed away in January 1946.  The city mourned the loss of a friend, a social visionary and a brave pioneer in women's rights and social reform.

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#20

 

SPEKE HALL

 

 

Speke Hall is a Tudor mansion on the outskirts of Liverpool. Parts of the building date from 1530. Further additions were made to the construction but it was essentially complete by 1598 and has changed little since then. The house was owned by the Norris family for many generations.

In 1942, the house passed into the care of the National Trust who have been responsible for its' upkeep ever since. It remains a favourite day out for Scousers - even the encorachment of Liverpool Airport has failed to dampen its' appeal - a charming journey back in time to an age few of us can convincingly imagine.

 

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